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Thinking of getting some 16 inch BBS reps for the E30. I am guessing the biggest risk is these will easily get damaged going over pot holes and are only suited for everyday driving at a normal pace. Anything else I should be worried about? Sizing is 16x8 and 16x9 with ET20 on both. Car is gonna be lowered slightly.

Hi all, I've recently just done a wheel alignment on my 640i, but after the alignment was done, my steering wheel is on an angle when the car drives straight, I find this very strange. :/ As I don't know much about the acceptable values of each adjustment, I've attached my wheel alignment sheet, I'm just wondering if anybody can tell me if these values look right? I also don't understand why the front camber is somewhat different between left and right. Any input would be helpful. Cheers.

Other Mods/Admin please edit as you see fit. Treat this like a wiki. Tip # 1 - Post pics of your ride If you are a new member posting on the forum for the first time, pictures of your car are compulsory! The only exception is if you are new to BMW's and haven't yet purchased. Half-assed fuzzy cell-phone camera pics are not good enough. We are an enthusiast forum and want to see what you drive - be proud of your ride! Tip # 2 - Follow the rules Bimmersport has been around a long time. It started as a really small group of friends who just wanted a place to meet other BMW enthusiasts, talk sh*t and maybe catch up for the odd beer. The forum was created by them in their own time and with their own money. As bimmersport has grown, advertising has allowed some of the expenses to be covered, but the owners of the site still invest their own resources, and them with the help of the rest of the Admin/Moderation team spend a lot of their own (unpaid) time trying to keep the forum running. As such, the Admin and Mods get really peeved if members don't follow the rules, pick fights, use bad grammar, and especially - abuse the mods/admin team. Do yourself a favour and read the rules and follow them. If someone else breaks the rules and it affects you, don't start a fight with them - contact a Moderator. Tip # 3 - When in Rome.... As said above, Bimmersport started as a really small group of friends who just wanted a place to meet other BMW enthusiasts, talk sh*t and maybe catch up for the odd beer. Many of the early members are still here and most are good friends in the real world (not just on the internet), and often get together socially. This means often there are "in jokes" and slang etc that you may not get or understand. It is just like meeting a new group of people who are all friends. You wouldn't try and stand out and make a d*ck of yourself in that sort of situation. You would watch everyone else and either become part of the group, or decide its not for you and quietly leave. The same is true for our online community to some extent. If you have an opinion that differs from the group, you're entitled to it, but if you are new, don't make an example of yourself by loudly voicing and defending controversial opinions. If you are a new member, you need to first establish your credentials with the group and earn their respect/friendship before loudly voicing controversial opinions. Liken it to a dinner party with a group of old friends, if you will. A new comer to the group voices strong opinions loudly all night. The group dismisses the newcomer as rude, and opinionated despite the fact the newcomers points may have been valid. Tip # 4 - Have a sense of humour If someone says something you don't like, at first try and take it light-heartedly. Chances are they are just pulling your leg a little bit. Some members like to bait new members a little bit. Try not to get offended. If it gets out of hand or becomes personal rest-assured the admin and moderators will step in and sort it out, but try to remember this is just the internet - its not worth getting worked up about. Tip # 5 - Have fun There are a lot of different people on bimmersport, and this diversity makes it a great place. We have people of all ages, cultures, economic demographics, knowledge and skill levels and tastes. Embrace the diversity, and have fun. We'd love to see you at the next meet so we can put a face to the name and ummm.. talk sh*t and drink the odd beer.... Tip # 6 - Technical Questions suggested by *Glenn* If asking a technical question, please give Model, Year & if possible, last 7 digits of your Vin/Chassis # to get the right help. Tip # 7 - Use the Search button, followed by Google, followed by asking your question here suggested by _Mark_ Chances are your question about how to lower your car, reset your service lights, or install XXX part has been answered before, and probably more than once. If you find the search function on the forum difficult to get a good result from use Google and type "site:bimmersport.co.nz" after your search query. Google will then only display results from this site. Tip # 8 - If you want to discuss illegal or unsafe mods, this site is not for you suggested by Simon* Whilst we encourage modified vehicles, and love that low look, if you want to discuss illegally low setups, dangerous mods such as illegal wheel spacers, cut springs, or similar, then you are not welcome. Most of our members also tend to frown on the whole "gangsta" look SLABs, chromes and big-bores. Some of our members have these, and that is their taste, but if you get a bit of grief about it, that's life. There are plenty of other sites that like that sort of thing. Tip # 9 - This is not bebo suggested by Simon* Keep chat off the forums. Use the PM function, or go to a chat room. No one wants to here your personal conversation. Yes, we know you know the other member, yes we know you think your personal jokes are funny, yes we know you've got nothing else better to do, and we don't want to hear it. We don't want to watch your half-assed attempts at flirting. We don't want to read five pages of smilies. Keep the discussion on topic and keep your personal conversations out of the forum. Tip # 10 - Don't be a postwhore suggested by Grant If you aren't making a useful contribution to the topic at hand, don't reply. Your post count is not some kind of status symbol. If your posts aren't useful, a high post count just means you are even more full of sh*t. If you post whore you run the risk of pissing of other members, moderators, or admin, and thus run the risk of receiving a warning about your behaviour, or having your post count reset to zero. Tip # 99 - Gus thinks he's awesome suggested by Gus As evidenced here: E: Spelling

Hey guys, so after a long stint away from bmw's i'm coming back. Have been set on a 135i for a while now and am ready to purchase. Have spent a bit of time looking at a few. I've found one that i'm pretty keen on. Its a 09 with the n54. One thing I noticed during the test drive is a slight howling noise at lower rpm, this car has had charge pipe etc replaced recently by Auckland City BMW and according to what they've told the owner, it's nothing to worry about. It's definitely boost related from what I can tell but the car feels strong on boost and seems to hold power fine. Does sound like a spooling noise, just wondering if other 135/335 owners have experienced the same issue? Will be getting a PPI done but just looking to see if it's normal on these Cheers

Just a query about the idrive service history on F3x 3 series models - some of the imports (Jap / UK) I looked at had service history available as a submenu option: vehicle information > vehicle status > service requirements > service history. (although I've heard this option isn't there until the car's first service) My F31 had its first service at Coombes Johnston on Saturday - all relevant intervals now reset, but no sign of the 'service history' menu option. Can anyone with a late model F30 tell me whether this is normal for NZ new cars?

I figured I may as well ask here given the number of knowledgeable people in business here. I'm a contractor in a high-value international industry (in short USA, planes). I am looking to do work for a US company and have been presented a contract that dumps all liability on my company. That is not unusual in my game, they will have similar wording in their contract with their customer above them. I just happen to be the bottom of the chain so sh*t flows downhill. I will be working (and contracted) under my NZ company name, not personally. Am I correct that by working under my company name that if things turn bad I can wind up my NZ company and there is then no-one to take to court? The only hitch with this plan is any court proceedings would be in the USA and therefore completely bollocks. Local suppliers of liability insurance have either laughed at me or quoted $15,000 per year... :-0 In reality it is very unlikely any of this would be called upon. End of the day someone else will be approving my work higher up the chain, any court would point finger at them, but cost of defense falls on me per this bad wording. Richard

141/150.. not far off.. doesn’t really assist my query

and this is my reply: Primacy is a touring tyre with a higher load rating and designed to last longer - have them on my Saab, pretty good but can be provoked into loosing grip in the wet Pilot sport 4 is a performance tyre generally at lower load ratings and has a higher wear rate - have these on my 328 - very hard to get them to unhook in any condition. so I drive on both tyes every day /week - which is in line with your query - I was dismissing comments from others which do not address your query and who do not have direct experience 'flipping' between the two specific tyres. I'd put the PS 4's on the Saab over the primacy but they don't come in a 95 + load rating in a 215/45/17 I doubt that the Honda would feel very good on 98 load rated tyres - they have a stiffer case to manage the weight of lardy mercs and 5 series BMW's

G'day everyone, Been searching the online forums to see if 17x8 et10 and 17x9 et19 will fit 87 M535i. So far I have seen conflicting answers. Anyone run this setup before? Found some type 5s online and was curious. Bore is 72.5 Thanks

Ok so this in on my V12 E34, but will be the same as any other car I am sure... only difference is there is two of everything When i leave the car for any period of time more than about 12 hours, the car takes ages to start, there is no fuel, to either bank. after cranking for long enough, and i assume enough fuel pressure builds up, it starts up good as gold. Once running, i have full engine power at my disposal etc, its not running lean or rich, i am familiar with usual fuel pump failure symptoms etc. Turn car off and then come back to it in an hours time or whatever it starts straight up like it always should. Almost like fuel pressure is dropping over night???? There is no evidence of leakage both visually or smell All 12 fuel injectors are recently refurbished, very unlikely to be leaking already, and has run fine on them before now.

Does anyone recognide this filter? Came out of M50B25 with oil cooler. Can't makeout the lettering...

Hey Guys, Was hoping that someone might now what the two plugs just above the lower radiator hose are on the engine end of the hose. As its dripping something that could be oil onto it. Im assuming its from one of those plugs if not both. I'm replacing the Radiator and Lower Radiator hose, and since i'll be having that space once its out to work with I'd like to know what they are and then see how easy it is to fix it while the Radiator and hose is out the way. Reason im replacing the hose is due to the oil dripping on it. Ive tried finding it on this site but havent found it yet. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=DM62&mospid=47544&hg=11 I have attached 2 pictures to try and make it easier to the area im talking about. Thanks in advance for any help on this

Hey guys, I have some aftermarket headlights installed on my E39 Touring, took it in for a WOF at the local VTNZ and it failed due to the indicator bulbs in the headlight not being secure....they were taped in by previous owner! Is there some sort of easy fix i can do for this eg harness or bulb holder that will plug direct into the wiring harness that im already running? Im not running HID, Keen to get this sorted asap, would i need to get intouch with Miland or do some diy - which id like to avoid. Open to suggestions though Thanks.

Hey guys, I have been looking at a 1987 E30 320i that has the facelift plastic fenders. I thought these were put on facelift models from '88 onwards to my knowledge. Can anyone confirm this or was the change over date late in 1987 for plastic bumpers to be introduced? I only query because i have noticed the car also has the older style steering wheel as well. Any light to shed on this would be helpful, cheers!

welcome, Adam. The place to start would normally be in the "new members intro" thread (or whatever it's called). So, to your query. The 325i you've linked to looks pretty spartan, no carpets, race seat... the seller states he's selling to build an e36 that is more road than race... inferring his e30 is more race than road. And it's listed in the Competition Cars section. WoF is long expired - and one wonders if the brakes have been certed. Looks like a cool car, not so sure it meets your idea of "fun and zippy" and "not too much track stuff". It's probably very zippy, and a bunch of fun. It is on Koni adjustables and Toyo R888s, so it should go round corners well (ref also Hampton Downs times). We need to get an idea of what fun means to you. One man's fun is another man's agony! Perhaps you could give us an idea of how much motorsport you're thinking of participating in? cheers

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Community/MessageBoard/Messages.aspx?id=1671636&topic=1 " BMW says 1L of oil burnt per 1000KM is normal. " - What?!?!?!!?!?!? - http://f10.m5post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1268584&d=1440700325 further - http://www.nzlii.org/cgi-bin/sinodisp/nz/cases/NZMVDT/2016/105.html?query=oil leak

Dave it is a fascinating read , but when you read further through the associated posts the underlying reasons for the problem finally surface. the actual article does not identify these. And if you only read the article you might reasonably conclude that the Air injection systems are "problematic" where in fact they are quite reliable but not capable of reversing the astounding stupidity of some owners and their mechanics - both would need to play a part in the outcome for that vehicle. What we need to remember is the query from the Op "is it an issue here?" - answer it will be for some vehicles but is it a design/ functional failing - NO.

Hi there, I want to buy another set of Motorsport rims for my 2000 E46 330i (OEM ‘Style 68’ I believe??). My tyres are worn and rims quite curbed. I've found a set with near new tyres and have a couple of questions. - The set of rims I’m looking at appear identical to mine but are off a 1999 Motorsport Z3. Did the Motorsport Z3 have the same rims as the Motorsport E46? Will they be the same size and offset? They are advertised as 225/17 for the front and 245/17 for the back which appear to be the same sizes as mine. - The tyres are near new Bridgestone Regno GR-8000. Does anyone know anything about these tyres? They look to be a Japanese model and I'm struggling to get any idea of quality/appropriateness. I just need something suitable for typical all weather Auckland driving with a mixture of safely/performance/quietness/comfort. Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Jeff

Hi all, Trying to Give our 97 750iL a little birthday It has the Electronic Dampening all the shocks are obviously a little farked being 200,000+ kms old Is it possible to Install Say Monroe or Bilstein Regular Dampers in place of the Electronic ones...... If so please advise if you know of a suitable part number and if its necessary to block anything off....? Cheers Guys

1998 E46 328i Sedan, Auto Trans is in emergency mode with the little Cog next t the gear indicator. Seems to operate ok and doesnt shift nastily or anything. I've hooked up my carsoft 910 and it reads 97 CAN status, fault Have searched everywhere but cant find much about that. Coincidentally the airbag light has come back on and I cant query the SRS for the fault code (communication error). It has been fine previoulsy when I installed an airbag bypass sensor for the passengers seat a while ago and reset the SRS. Could they are related? Wondering if the SRS module wont query has this thrown the EGS into Emergency Mode?

hi guys.. got a question if anyone can help me out. Got a half decent E30 coupe automatic that I'm putting a bit of effort into, there are a few bits need fixing with it but mechanically it is sound . the reverse lights dont come on when the car is put into reverse, the bulbs etc are fine , it appears it may be a wiring issue as I have noticed there are some non standard wires that serve the brakelights, indicators etc etc. I have taken the cover off the gear selector and can see there has been a bit of tinkering in there (cables joined etc) . I was just going to fit a switch and manually turn on the reverse lights when necessary (I have run a wire from the console and connecting that to power turns the reverse bulbs on no problem) but was wondering if anyone could tell me which wire (if any) that serves the reverse lights from within the Auto shifter housing (don't know what else to call it I'm afraid) - I can then connect my newly run wire to the reverse lights to this and everything will hopefully be as good as new .... Thanks in advance folks

That could well be the case, but I still think its a little odd that I can no longer query the SRS system and cant help but think the CAN fault is a communication error to some of the control modules, which I assume a better scanner would still have trouble with. What other things can I check without a better scanner? Seems odd that the SRS light and the Trans emergency mode lights have come on at the same time.

Thanks Ill try that. I did just buy a iCarsoft i910-II and found I could query the engine sensors. I did notice that one of the cooling system temps was 144 degrees! Is that temp that's within spec of normal use? I however noticed the coolant level drop again overnight so I removed the lower engine cover off and found a drip! Pulled it all apart again today and took the belt and pulley off the water pump and saw a drip coming from the hole in the bottom - phew... so guess its a water pump. Certainly couldn't see any leaks form the thermostat housing. I gave the water pump pulley a bit of a shake to see if it that was where the leak was and now after putting it back together its seems to be spewing al lot more water out with the belts and fan flicking it all over the place...! I suppose this is new as I have noticed this before when the engine was either hot or cold. Have a water pump hopefully arriving tomorrow, so will replace and hopefully that is that! Will update after.

he has already spent the money,someonle else has lready commented on the delaer pricing thing ,your post didnt say to ask for a price or even ask the OP to query the price with JC just a pointless post to make him feel even better about the experience and in a not so sublte way say .wow i wouldnt pay that.

What triggered the query is the change from 10W-40 to 5W-30 in my Saab - the performance improvement is noticeable as is the smoothness and lack of "noises" from the engine, an additional qualifier is that the oil in the Saab was of unknown parentage. Service agents have been using Magnatec - will swap to edge 5-30 at the next service in the 328.